12/7/10

¡Feria de Quitumbre! (December 5-6)

On Sunday and Monday I went to one of the major events of the Festivals of Quito, the Fair in South Quito. The highlight of my experience there was definitely seeing The Wailers concert! Even without Bob Marley, they were still excellent and they played a lot of my favorite songs, including: No Woman, No Cry, I Shot the Sheriff, Jammin, One Love, Exodus, Punky Reggae Party, Get Up Stand Up, a new tribute song to world hunger and more! The concert was free, outside in the sun and we were able to get pretty close to the stage, it doesn´t get much better than that!
Other than the Wailers, there were over 30 other musicians who played over the weekend, from all over Latin America and Europe.
After the concert, I tried some delicious Ecuadorian style fair food; fried dough balls with sugar, merange and chocolate covered strawberries on a stick!

 The Wailers Vocalists: Duane Stephenson, Koolant, one I can´t remember 
and the I-Threes (there are now two women)

 Aston "Family Man" Barrett on bass

 Just one of the crazy paintings that was completed during the festival

Quilotoa Crater (December 3-5)

Last weekend Lela and I explored the Quilotoa Crater and the gorgeous mountains in the area. Even though we were robbed on the bus on the way there, we still had a great time. On Friday we hiked down into the crater, which took 30 minutes to descend and about an hour to get back to the top. It was quite steep! On Saturday we headed out early and hiked for nearly 11 hours, and about 18 miles total.
First we hiked around the top of the crater and down into a valley, into a canyon and then back up into the little town of Chugchilàn. We met an awesome peacecorp couple from Portland, OR who joined us on the way there. On the way back to Quilotoa where our hostel was, we ran into four other CIMAS students who were backpacking in the same area. Once we reached the crater again we decided to loop all the way around it and just before we got back into the town we saw a gorgeous sunset reflected in the lake. After another night in the little village, we departed early Sunday morning and walked and rode buses back to Latacunga, where we ate more amazing fried corn and cheese fritters and then continued onto Quito.

 On the way down into the Quilotoa Crater on Friday afternoon

 Chilly start to our hike on Saturday morning at 12,000 plus feet

 Illiniza Volcanoes
 View down into the Valley of Chugchilàn


 On the way back up to the crater, passing some Andean Quichua women herding sheep

 Clouds rolling in during the afternoon

Sunset over the lake inside the Quilotoa Crater on Saturday night

12/1/10

Galapagos Islands Pictures Part 2

 TUNA!! cooked on hot rocks in Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz

 Small fishing boat in the harbor of Puerto Ayora

 The rest of the group standing in front of the Sierra Negra Crater with our guide, Whitman.


 Giant cruise boat that many tourists take to see the Galapagos (we did not!)


 Galapagos Penguins!


 White Tipped Reef Sharks

Right after Thanksgiving dinner at a restaurant on Isabela Island

Galapagos Islands Pictures Part 1

 Playing with a Sea Lion in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristobol Island

 Marine Iguana-one of many endemic species on the Galapagos

 La Playa Restaurant where we ate on San Cristobol Island

 View of a bay that we snorkeled in from Frigate Bird Hill

 Charles Darwin and me!

 Cruising from San Cristobol to Santa Cruz on a sunny morning

 Baby land turtles in cages protected from black rats at the Charles Darwin Foundation on Santa Cruz Island

These giant land tortoises can live for up to 180-200 years!!

Galapagos Islands Field Trip!!! (November 22-26)

The final field trip of the quarter was quite the vacation! However, like all of our field trips, we learned a lot while having tons of fun too! On Monday our guide Whitman picked us up at the airport on San Cristobol Island and we moved into our hotel at the “Casa de Laura” about a block from the beach. We walked on the beach in the port town, which is filled with sea lions! After lunch at La Playa restaurant, also owned by Whitman, we rode bikes to La Loberia beach to snorkel and see huge land iguanas and more sea lions. We rode a bit more around the cute port town and devoured more delicious seafood that night.
On Tuesday we had breakfast and made our way to the Galapagos National Park visitor center and the Frigate Bird Hill. The views over the ocean were incredible and shortly after we were in the water once again, snorkeling among multitudes of fish and neat rock formations. We cruised in a little boat back across the port bay and stopped briefly to jump in the water and see a sunken ship.
After lunch we hopped in a taxi and drove from the west to east across the island to visit a Giant Land Tortoise Breeding Center. The turtles can live for up to 200 years and they are in danger of going extinct, so this center is incubating eggs and protecting the young turtles until they are 5 years old so that the invasive black rats can’t eat them. We got to see some very young turtles and some very old ones as well, and they are the ideal species to observe because they move so slowly! Afterwards we went up to a viewpoint and looked out across 1000 km of empty water to the Ecuadorian mainland. We returned to the port for some relaxing at the hotel and another spectacular dinner at La Playa.
Wednesday morning we got up early to get on a boat to Santa Cruz Island. Our stay on Santa Cruz was very brief, we visited the Charles Darwin Institute, which does research and works on conservation projects. We got to see more Giant Tortoises there from many different islands (all endemic species) and more iguanas! We ate lunch with two guides from the Institute and it was the best meal yet: fresh grilled tuna!
We boarded another boat in the afternoon and this one took us to Isabela Island, where we would be spending the rest of our time. After disembarking, we walked along the port town’s impressive white sand beach, which stretched out for more than 2 miles. In the evening we ran and swam on the main beach and ate dinner with two travelers we met, a crazy woman from Houston and a very nice Parisian man. What a contrast!
The next morning we started our busiest day in the Galapagos with a hike to Sierra Negra, the second widest volcanic crater in the world! On the way back to the port we stopped to see pink flamingos and we walked through an incredible mangrove swamp. After lunch we got on a small boat and cruised around the bay to see penguins, white tipped reef sharks and more iguanas, and we snorkeled with turtles and had sea lions swimming around us in circles! They like to play a game where they swim by your side, then loop around and pop back up right in front of you before darting at the last moment underneath you. We got off the boat and hit up one last snorkeling spot before heading back to the hotel. Our Thanksgiving meal consisted of grilled fish, fried plantains, rice, lentils, fruit and of course fresh juice, so I didn’t even miss the traditional food at all! That night I spent some time on the beach just gazing at the stars and enjoying the tranquility.
Friday morning I woke up before 5 am to enjoy the last of the beach before we had to get on a boat at 6 am to return to Santa Cruz. We had a delicious breakfast in the town there and as we drove to the airport we pleaded with Whitman to let us stay. But after saying goodbye, we boarded the plane and less than 2 hours later we were back in Quito.

Archdona and Tena pics

 Alex (Runa volunteer) walking across the bridge in Archidona

 Runa headquarters, Archidona

 Cavernas de Jumandy

 Stalagtites!

 corn and cacao drying on the street

river in Archidona

Rafting pictures hopefully coming soon!!

11/30/10

Archidona and Tena (November 19-21)

Another CIMAS student, Lela, and I fit a little trip to the Amazon in between class field trips and to escape the rainy weather of Quito. We had been offered a place to stay in Archidona when our class visited the Orient a few weeks before. Our friends are volunteering at an organization there called Runa. They are trying to grow and export a tea called guayusa, which has been used by the local Indigenous populations for a long time and has an amount of caffeine between black tea and coffee. The group is especially focused on interacting with the farmers and making it a feasible alternative to more destructive industries in the Amazon. We arrived at their office/volunteer house at about midday on Friday and it felt so good to be warm again! We went out to lunch with our friend Alex and a few of the Peacecorps volunteers who also work there. Then we took a walk to the swimming hole in the river located 2 blocks from Runa! In the afternoon we attended the organizations meeting to learn more about it and we found some delicious empanadas near the cute town square of Archidona for dinner.
There are also 7 Minnesota CIMAS students currently doing internships in Archidona and the nearby town of Tena, so Friday night we met up with them in Tena to celebrate a birthday and have a fun time dancing!
On Saturday we walked to Cavernas Jumandy with a few Runa people to hike through the lava tube and to swim in the pools filled with water coming out of the caves. There was also a horrifying waterslide that I think was meant to knock the wind out of poor kids like us brave enough to go down it!
Lela and I walked in the sunshine back into Archidona, made some lunch and took the bus to Tena. Parts of the town are really touristy because it is reputed to be the best place in Ecuador to river raft. But other than the two rivers that meet and divide the town in two, there wasn’t too much to see. We did run into a school gymnasium with an intense youth pingpong tournament going on. I had no idea that it was a big sport in Ecuador! We grabbed a bus back to Archidona and returned to the river near Runa to hike around and swim in the beautiful water. We hung out at the volunteer house for the night because we were mighty exhausted!
On Sunday morning we left early with 4 Runa volunteers to go to Tena to start a day-long raft trip! We had to ride in the raft company’s truck for a while before actually reaching the river, but once in the boats, we had an awesome time! Even though we were constantly being splashed and knocked into the water by the guides and their “games”, no wet suits were needed this time! The rapids were mostly a Class 3 and there were sections that we could float down. At one point we stopped to jump off of a bridge into the river and we estimated that it was about 25 feet tall! Terrifying! We also stopped for a side-canyon hike at one point to rub mud all over ourselves and then swim under a gorgeous waterfall. We didn’t reach the end until we’d covered 25 km of river and it was 6pm! Lela and I still had to get back to Quito that night and we ended up catching the second to last bus and getting home at 12:30 am on Monday! The raft trip was by far worth it and the whole weekend was a total blast! 

Pedro Moncayo Photos

 View of the highlands on the road from Quito to Otavalo

Flower plantation 

Inside of flower plantation: the de-spining line 

 

 Organic family farm

 Country home of our teacher Luis

 crazy avocados!!

 cuys (guinea pigs)- used for fertilizer and food!

laguna de mojanda

Pedro Moncayo County Field Trip (November 17-18)

Field trip number 3 of 4 was a bit shorter than the others, but nonetheless it was very informative and gave me some good ideas for my final term paper. We left Quito early on Wednesday and drove north 2 hours to Pedro Moncayo County, where a large percentage of Ecuador’s flower plantations are located. The main flowers that are grown are roses, carnations and chrysanthemums and they are almost entirely exported to the US. Russia, Holland and other European countries also import a small amount. The industry has grown rapidly in the past 30 years and there are now a slew of problems in Pedro Moncayo. Flower companies are using water and land meant for farming, contaminating the air, water and people with dangerous pesticides, treating workers horribly and even altering the culture of the communities in the area.
Our first stop on the trip was a tour of a smaller flower plantation, and we got to see their giant plastic greenhouses, the women working on the de-thorning lines and the cold rooms storing dozens of roses with names like “Forever Young” and “Latin Lady”. The flower plantation that we visited was actually one with “better” practices because they are trying to use fewer pesticides and they reuse the rainwater off of the roofs. All over the area there were much larger companies owned by non-Ecuadoreans and what goes on inside their gates is not open to the public.
Next we visited the small community where our teacher for the trip, Luis, has his weekend house. Luis and others in his community banded together to keep flower companies out of the area and they continue to farm the traditional crops of the Sierra: varieties of corn, potatoes, quinoa, veggies, etc. After lunch we got to see two different organic family farms with lots of different fruits and veggies and many “cuyes” or guinea pigs! Farmers can get $6 per cuy in a market and a BBQ’d cuy can cost $10! Apparently they are very high in protein and mighty tasty, especially the head!! Sadly, we didn’t get to try one…maybe next time! The cuyes are also very important because their excrement is a highly useful fertilizer for all of the food crops. Besides the cuys, the highlight of the afternoon was spent underneath a grass-roofed hut talking with an Ecuadorian woman about her 14 years spent on the plantations and the health problems that she dealt with. Now her and her husband have a productive farm where they produce all of their own food and pesticide-free flowers for the local markets.
On our way back to Luis’ house our minibus got stuck in the mud and we had to walk most of the way back and leave the driver there overnight! The walk was very refreshing and when we returned to Luis’ cute cottage, a traditional Sierra meal and a hot fire were waiting for us. The six of us students enjoyed the night by the fire.
On Thursday we drove by a few volcanoes and the famous market town of Otavalo on our way to the gorgeous Lagunas de Mojanda. We got to hear about the history and social struggles in the area from leaders of a community organization. They are battling to preserve their clean water and promoting reforestation projects in the nearby Indigenous communities.
After another delicious meal at Luis’ house, we stopped by a store for some bizcochos, a typical flaky breadstick that they make in the area. On our way back to Quito we hiked for a bit at the Jerusalem Dry Forest. It was a very neat experience in an environment that I had never really seen before. Returning to Quito, we each went home with 24 bright pink roses that were given to us by the flower company and 4 big lemons from one of the farms. I felt contaminated and didn’t even want to touch the flowers as I was putting them in a vase for my host family to enjoy. Knowing that 80 kinds of chemicals had been sprayed on each petal and the women working on the assembly line pulling the thorns off earned $250 last month made the flowers look a lot less pretty. Needless to say I enjoyed the lemonade much more!

Mindo Photos

Mindo-the land of the hummingbirds!


View of the valley from the road to the cable car 

 Eating dinner at the hostel!

 Katrina on the cable car!



One of many sketchy bridges